Outside the vast, shipping center of Rotterdam, near the North Sea shoreline of the Netherlands, Schiedam is a modest town that would be bypassed routinely were it not for the series of historic windmills that define its skyline.
Outside the vast, shipping center of Rotterdam, near the North Sea shoreline of the Netherlands, Schiedam is a modest town that would be bypassed routinely were it not for the series of historic windmills that define its skyline.
By
Kieron Halnan
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T
hese distinct landmarks represent the legacy of an impressive heritage in distilling spirits—a heritage still thriving thanks to perhaps the world’s finest vodka, Ketel One.
The Windmill De Nolet casts a long, shimmering shadow over the calm flow of the Buitenhaven canal in Schiedam, outside Rotterdam and close to one of the world’s busiest ports. Rising 130 feet from the ground to its cap, the Windmill De Nolet is the tallest of its kind in the world, standing as testament to the centuries-old heritage of spirit distilling that has underpinned the economy of this unassuming Dutch quarter. In particular, this imposing windmill represents the longstanding success of the Nolet Family Distillery, which is the biggest distiller in the Netherlands and one of the most important in the world. It is at Nolet where the incomparable Ketel One vodka is produced.
Prior to the industrial revolution, windmills powered Dutch industry. Famously a country of low altitude, winds enjoy a free ride across the Netherlands and the Dutch became masters of harnessing its power. In Schiedam, windmills powered the grinding of wheat into grain, which was traditionally used to produce genever. Gin as we know it today is a derivative of genever, although as a kind of distilled malt wine, the taste of jenever is often closer to whisky than it is to gin. Today, the Nolet Family Distillery produces Ketel 1 Jenever and Nolet’s Finest Gins among a broad offering.
“Schiedam had the water for distilling from underground, the harbor for shipping, and the wheat from local farmers,” explains Bob Nolet as we enjoy the view over Schiedam from near the top of the Windmill De Nolet. Bob and his brother Carl Jnr.—who is President and CEO of Nolet U.S.A.—represent the 11th generation of the Nolet family to run this business.
Schiedam was once the proud home to 19 windmills, all producing grain for nearly 400 distilleries in the 19th century. The industrial revolution and two world wars took a heavy toll on Schiedam’s productivity and today, only six of the old windmills remain standing.
Windmill De Nolet was built by the Nolet family between 2004-06. While its 45-foot sails contribute to the energy usage of the Nolet Distillery, the state-of-the-art structure does not operate as a windmill in the traditional sense. Its 10 attics (stories) house a movie theatre, boardroom, tasting and reception rooms for the Nolet Family Distillery, and it serves as a vivid reminder that while Schiedam’s role in the evolution of distilling fine spirits is mainly consigned to history, the Nolet family business continues to thrive.
The windmill was the brainchild of Carolus Nolet Sr., the former chief executive of the Nolet Family Distillery, who represents the 10th generation of the family to run this spirits business, which was founded by Joannes Nolet in Schiedam in the late 17th century.
It was Carolus—who is now semi-retired in Schiedam—who recognized the need in 1980s America for a premium, ultra-smooth vodka to sooth the Martini’s customary mule’s kick-in-the-mouth. Nolet crafted Ketel One, which is named after the distillery’s original copper still from the mid-19th century—“Distilleerketel No. 1”—which is still used in production. Nolet uses a column distillation system to produce the finest ‘ultra wheat spirit’, which is then partly re-distilled in a series of copper pots, before being filtered and blended to ensure Ketel One’s renowned, silky finish.
“We knew we could make the Martini a better cocktail and we have never seen another vodka that comes close to our quality,” adds Bob Nolet. “For the Nolet family, the liquid is the most important thing. The marketing and everything else comes after, but our core business is distilling vodka.”
Adds Carl Nolet Jnr.: “We made people realise that vodkas vary and that the smoothness of Ketel One makes it perfect in a Martini. We love to see people take a taste test. You can put Ketel One up against any other vodka and immediately you can tell the difference.”
Made for America
While the origins of vodka are European, the biggest market for this Schiedam-made spirit is the United States. Carl Jnr. was sent over in the early nineties to drum up sales of Ketel One—which at the time was the new bottle on the shelf—and for 15 years, from 1992 to 2007, Ketel One enjoyed month-on-month sales increases without fail, as it became the dominant vodka in the US and the choice of virtually every notable bartender. Since 2008, global sales and marketing are covered through a joint venture with Diageo.
“Bartenders love our product because they use it to make phenomenal drinks,” adds Carl Jnr. “Ketel One is the canvas and the bartender is the artist.”
Today, Ketel One is sold in more than 90 countries around the world, yet an estimated 85% of sales remain in the United States.
It was in the late nineties that the Nolet family learned that Arnold Palmer’s drink of choice was Ketel One neat, on the rocks, with a twist of lemon. In fact, on arrival at any hotel, Palmer’s first request on check-in would be for fresh lemons to be sent to his room.
“Arnold called it his ‘tulip’,” says Carl Jnr., who started an enduring friendship with Palmer after the golfer’s wife, Winnie, asked Ketel One if the company could help Palmer celebrate his 70th birthday in 1999.
“At the time we were creating Ketel One ice bars at special, select locations,” recalls Carl Jnr. “So we built an ice bar to celebrate Arnold’s birthday and we borrowed some of Arnold’s old clubs and a glove and other items and had them frozen into the ice in this special way, so as not to damage them. Arnold came up to the bar to get his ‘tulip’, looked into the frozen bar and said, ‘Hey, that’s my 9-iron! And that’s my glove! How’d they get in there?’
“That was how our lasting relationship started. It was genuine. Arnold was a fantastic ambassador for Ketel One and above all, a great friend.”
For lunchtime drinking around the Holidays, try one of the new Ketel One Botanical varietals in a refreshing, lightly fruity spritz. For the Bloody Mary at brunch or for evening cocktails, follow Palmer’s example and have a bottle of original Ketel One on hand.
Palmer Treasures
At a fund-raising dinner to benefit the Arnold Palmer Foundation in 2012, Carl Nolet Jnr. started bidding on a set of Arnold Palmer’s clubs that date back to the 1940s.
“The simple truth with auctions is that if you keep bidding long enough…”, starts Carl Jnr. He didn’t need to finish the sentence. We know what happens. He adds: “Thankfully, eventually the other person stopped bidding.”
This is not any old set of clubs, which is now prized by the Nolet family in Schiedam. The set dates back to 1946, when the amateur Palmer was 16 years old and blazing a trail around the top amateur championships in Pennsylvania and surrounding states. The clubs still have their original grips and remain unaltered since Palmer stopped playing with them in 1948.
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